Legally Blonde 2023 Costumes part 1

Legally Blonde 2023

Murray Bridge Players & Singers

Simplicity 9339 & Kwik Sew 2682

 Elle Woods Costumes part 1

Simplicity 9399 - Tailored suit jacket

design concept drawing

toile sample

This pattern is from the Cruella movie reproduction costume range. I chose it for the grid design and the peplum. I made a Trace'n'Toile toile to the actors measurements. 

Pattern line drawing

Fabric used

Polyester suiting in textured raspberry plaid, dark pink Acetate lining, Universal interfacing, Flock heart buttons all from Spotlight 
Velvet ribbon from stash

Fit changes
Moved the waistband up under the bust. Took the sides in to be more fitted.
Fitted the princess seams front and back.

Design changes 
I made a toile from Trace'n'toile first. The actor and I decided that the neckline needed to be open with a lapel and the skirt that came with the jacket in this pattern was not the right look for the character of Elle. 

I changed the jacket collar but forgot to add more fabric to the lapels so the finished result is a bit off balance but the colour and the velvet ribbon tend to overpower that flaw.

overlocked edges with notches marked in sharpie

matching the horizontal plaid stripe across the bodice

The suiting fabric is a loose weave and frayed so I block fused it before cutting out. Choosing white interfacing meant I could draw the ribbon placement lines directly on the interfacing on the back. 

I carefully matched the colour lines of the fabric so they ran horizontally across the body. I pinned the upper bodice and peplum pattern pieces onto the fabric at the dame time so the fabrics vertical stripes would run down the body through theses pieces. The vertical stripes are not symmetrical so I didn't bother matching those through to the skirt because I couldn't get them to match up.

I felt the gathering at the sleeve head on this pattern was too Mary Poppins so I changed to a fitted, 2 piece sleeve using McCalls 7456 cosplay jacket. The 2 piece sleeve was more fitted and tailored, I had to add 3 small darts to the sleeve head so it would fit into the existing armhole. I also added an underarm gusset to the design to give the actor more range of motion when dancing.

I didn't do the topstitching on the seams as the pattern is designed because it would not have showed on the busy plaid fabric. I used a pink velvet ribbon instead and topstitched it over these lines. 

The ribbon I had in my stash had flat silver sequins sewn to it with a chain stitch so I had to remove them first. 

I sewed the ribbon placement lines from the wrong side using the placement markings I transferred from the pattern. I used a black thread in the bobbin so it would just show up on the right side of the fabric. 

Peplem

Vertical lines of velvet ribbon sewn in place

horizontal lines added over the top

I used an adhesive pen to secure the ribbon in place before stitching. 

I added all the vertical lines of ribbon first so I could match the lines down the body so they would match above and below the waistband.

I then did the horizontal lines. Some of these had to be moved at the centre front to line up. The glue stuck so well that it pulled the velvet fibres through the ribbon and they stayed attached to the garment. It is only noticeable close up. 

garments wrong side showing placement lines draw for ribbon

I did make a toile of the original pattern in trace’n’toile which I have included a picture of so you can see it is a very nice outfit. It almost says corporate Mary Poppins to me. 

The actor had to make a quick change to get into this outfit so the button front is for show only. 

The jacket does up with an internal concealed, open ended zipper and the front is held closed with magnets. It can be converted back to a functional jacket if necessary.

The Cruella skirt did not give the sexy corporate look I needed so instead I used Kwik Sew 2682.

Misses' semi-fitted, unlined jackets and skirt Jacket has V-neckline, back belt attached to side seams and shoulder pads. View A has a two button closure. View B has shaped front with a hook an eye closure. Pull-on skirt has darts and elastic waist. View A has topstitching details. View B has bar hemline slit.

Pattern Sizing:

XS -XL Out of print paper pattern

I made size XL view A skirt

This is a pull on stretch skirt so I changed it to suit a woven fabric by adding a centre back seam with a zip and kick pleat. 
I also drafted a front and back waist facing and lined it.

Rehearsal photos taken by Jason McCullough.

    Part 2 of Legally Blonde costumes - Pleather Jacket

dress rehearsal photos by photographer Jason McCullough